“There is no language like the Irish for soothing and quieting.”
John Millington Synge
The winding roads south from Cashel lead to the southern shores of County Waterford.
In County Waterford, sitting on a bay of the Celtic Sea, is the small historic village of Ardmore. Exploring this 5th century village by the sea is a picture-perfect stopping point on an Ireland road trip. Once a fishing village and now a seaside resort the population swells in the summer but you can enjoy quieter times and lovely weather in late September.
Ardmore is thought to be the oldest Christian settlement in Ireland, St Declan came to this area, from Wales, some years before the arrival of St Patrick to Ireland, and much of St Declan’s story lives here.
The old monastery site sits just up Tower Hill Road. Overlooking the village and the bay, its 12th century round tower is a short walk up from the village. On the site are remains of Ardmore cathedral dating from the 12th and 13th centuries. The old cathedral walls have much of the intricate carvings still intact and clearly depict familiar religious scenes of Adam and Eve in the Garden and scenes of the Judgment of Solomon. The small 8th century oratory at the site is said to hold the remains of St Declan. The cathedral also contains two Ogham stones.
After visiting the ruins, a walk down the lanes to the shore is the perfect afternoon out of the car. Enjoy the quiet streets of this beautiful village. On this short walk to the beach stop at the local food-store & deli and purchase a picnic lunch. Meat pasties are a traditional favorite and a tasty lunch!
Near the beach areas, you may glimpse young seafarers as they load up in their kayaks and head out on the calm and nearly smooth sea. Enjoy your picnic on a sea facing bench at the shore. Sit here, relax and take in the shimmering beauty of the Celtic Sea.
After lunch, continue your beach stroll westward and find St Declan’s Stone, a natural rock feature on the beach. The stone is believed to have carried the Golden Heavenly Bell belonging to St Declan across the waters from Wales to this site. Declan finding the bell and with his prayers answered, founded his church on the great heights of this area. The Great Height, Aird Mhór.
You will find friendly locals and many quiet reflective spaces in Ardmore, enough that like the ebb and flow of the sea, you will always want to come back.
Further exploration in Ardmore:
From the main street of town continue up Cliff Road to the site of St Declan’s well.
Stroll along the cliff walk and enjoy the breezes and the salty air.
There are informational tourist & cultural signs located beachfront outlining the history of Ardmore.
“May the road rise up to meet you.”- Irish Proverb
Be Well. Stay Safe. Much Love.
Story & Photos: © 2020 Molly Cox
